Wacky Wacky Shanghai

Shanghai truly is a unique city. Someone told me that Shanghai is not "real" China. Even though, I have never been outside of Shanghai; I would actually agree with that. China is a Communist country, but Shanghai and the people of Shanghai are money making machines, extremely capitalistic. Shanghai is not exactly like an international Western city; it's not as clean and it's full of Chinese people working in foreign companies. Shanghai still lacks some traditional amenities that you would find in a Western city, something simple like toilet paper. However, Shanghai stands out with its futuristic looking skyscrapers. Of course, New York City has skyscrapers, but in terms of magnitude, New York does not even hold a candle to Shanghai.

But one neighborhood of Shanghai can give you an idea what old Shanghai/China is all about. The neighborhood is called Old City and it has some great historic landmarks. The Yu Gardens, which I did not go in because it cost 40 yuan. Ok, 40 yuan is about $6 USD; you may think I'm cheap but whatever. I'm not getting paid just yet. The Yu Gardens is Shanghai's only traditional Chinese garden. But right next to Yu Gardens was a little, but full of frenzy, shopping area all in Chinese architecture. Again, since I am not getting paid yet, I didn't really do any shopping. But the shops sold Chinese gifts, such as silk clothing and fabric, tea cups and pots, fans, chopsticks, and etc. I thought this was a really pretty area and it was great to see some Chinese architecture (finally) rather than seeing block and greyish skyscrapers. Right in the middle of the shopping center was a lake with a zig-zag path to the tea house, where Chinese tea is served in its traditional form. I had a woodberry and chrysanthemum tea. It tasted quite good, but it was not that big of a deal. I sat at a table next to a window and watch all of the consumers go by in the shopping area.

After I left the Yu Gardens area, I walked through Old City, through the really, really OLD parts of town. These streets were very narrow lined with shikumen houses. This area was a notorious gang area that used to be filled with opium smoke before the Communist government cleaned it up in the 1950s. Shikumen was a term to call the traditional Chinese city housing. Shikumen literally means "stone gate" (I looked it up on wikipedia). Something like this can be called townhouses in the English language. Since, Shanghai is an up and coming city in the world of capitalism, I heard these shikumen houses will eventually be demolished. It was quite an afternoon walking through these old shikumen neighborhoods. I honestly felt like I went back into the past, like a century ago. Some shikumen houses were being held together by bamboo sticks. Some markets that I walked by looked like it did not have ANY technology to help run the place. It was just fish, fruit, meat, and vegetables in racks made of bamboo and the store owner monitoring the market. The streets are covered with mud and no cars drove through here. Honestly, without insulting the Chinese, I seriously felt like I was really in a Third World country. Too bad that my camera isn't working at the moment so I could take pictures. No worries, I will be here for a year.

After walking through the neighborhood, I came across part of the Old City Wall, in which Shanghai used to be encircled in up until the mid 1800s. There's not much I can say about that, it's just a really old wall. But I remind myself, it's history! But close to the wall, I noticed that there was a temple. I thought, ok why not? Let's check it out. It was a Taoist temple. China in these days is considered an atheist country, but three different kinds of religion is well presented in Chinese history: Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism. I know the least about the Taoists. The temple was set up in its Chinese temple architecture. Inside was more brown, red and white. There were a lot of gold statues of Taoist figures. I walked into the center of the temple and there were people lighting up candles and huge cans of ash (what kind of ash, I am not certain) and praying. Around the temple were rooms, all with gold or colorful embossed statues, each with a purpose. You were supposed to pray in all of these rooms facing the statues, as I noticed one man doing. However, I noticed that one of the rooms were full of 3x5 plaques of people that had died and their funeral was held in the temple.

I felt kinda bad about being in the temple since I know nothing about Taoism, or any other Eastern religions for that matter. I kinda felt like I was intruding; this was a place of worship for some of the Chinese; and I was just looking around, not doing any kind of worship. But no one kicked me out. I was just curious about anything that has to do with China. This was a day that I learned more about Shanghai's history and at least a little bit more about religions in China. Well, I definitely will be making a trip back to Old City, either for historical insight or to bring friends who may come visit me. But I know I will be back when my camera works.

Now, remember the girls taking me to the "tea ceremony?" I was discussing this situation with the lady at the front desk of the hostel and she told me that I should report this to the police. She said there is a good chance I may get my money back. Apparently this happens to a lot of tourists, who, like me, felt incredibly stupid afterwards. Today, I went to the police station and found the ONE police officer that spoke English. I explained to him what had happened to me. He took down some information, but he told me if I can find the girls, so-called Helen and Shirley, which is not likely, I can get my money back. He said that this happens hundreds of times each year and only about 3-5 actually get caught. Plus, where the tea ceremony is held, moves its location all the time to reduce the risk of getting caught. I knew that there was no way I can find these girls, let alone trying to bring them to police station to be arrested. He also told me the consequences if they do get caught, they can go to jail for up to 8 years. I thought that it was a severe punishment for a scam of overpriced tea ceremonies. I guess it was more for not having some kind of permit to run these places and the idea of tricking poor tourists for a lot of money. I also told him where it was; and he said he will check it out. Would he really check it out, I wonder? But at least I tried.

job interviews

I already had two interviews at other schools this week. The one I went to yesterday, Web International, was a little bit like KaiEn, but slightly more relaxed and computer based. I was not too excited when the director told me about it and I still don't think it's the best fit for me. If it's the only place that will hire me, I will take it. Also, I don't think the interview went exactly as I would have liked. It wasn't terrible, but I still felt a little too inexperienced for this place. The one I interviewed today, English First was the best fit for me. I thought that interview went fantastic! And she seemed to really like me in the interview. We talked for quite a while and got along great! She told me about the positions available; which I will be teaching kids, ages from 6-18. Also, she said that EF hires inexperienced and younger teachers a lot and they will fully work me with me to get me comfortable and part of the school. Initially I will work through a 12-week induction program as part of the contract and then fully teach after that. They said that they will also see me through in getting my work/residence visa, getting an apartment, health insurance and setting up a bank account. Plus, they are paying me more than KaiEn was!

So, I'm definitely looking forward to working at this school! In my opinion, I think teaching kids are better for my experience level because they would be more eager than adults who have come to class after a long day at work; and kids are more receptive to language than adults. Also, I would have more fun with kids and I can take them out on field trips and applying English outside of the classroom! EF is better for those who rather just teach English for a year, while KaiEn was more career teachers. EF also provides great networking around the world, with centers in the United States! And it looks great on a resume! Even after my year in China, I could easily transfer to another teaching center somewhere else in the world; this school has centers on every continent. Maybe, I can go to Africa! I've always wanted to go to Africa for teaching English or some kind of volunteer work. Ok, now I'm just getting ahead of myself. Let's make sure I have this job for real. In two days, I am going back to the school and meeting with the Director of Studies who will give me full details about the job and the induction. I'm so excited!

Now onto other things. I have moved out of the hotel that KaiEn has provided for me into a hostel in the downtown area. This hostel is better for me than the hotel because the hotel had no restaurant or bar; therefore, no way to socialize. I was bored out of my mind in that hotel. But this hostel is full of Europeans and some Chinese and there is a restaurant/bar and a lounge. I've talked to a few people and I am definitely not bored here. Plus, it's right downtown and it saves me money that I can walk everywhere rather than having to pay for transportation.

This being my 9th day in Shanghai, I am learning something new about China everyday. Remember the girls that I had become friends with and took me to a traditional Chinese tea ceremony? I was reading in my Shanghai travel planner and it turns out that the tea ceremonies are a scam to get more money out of travellers. Now I feel stupid. Friends they were. Right. Oh well, at least I know now. When I first realized that, I felt really dumbfounded but at the same time I kind of found it amusing. Now I can warn people about "friends" wanting to take you to a tea ceremony. From now on, I do not count on making friends from people who just approach me on the street. Maybe, really I should have known better, but who would question young, single Chinese girls? I'm not making friends unless I'm in a decent situation, such as at work or meeting people in the apartments. People that I can easily get to know without spending all kinds of money.

Also, the Chinese do not believe in having toilet paper in bathrooms. How do they wipe themselves? I don't want to think, it's too gross. But seriously, don't they get that it's not sanitary. Now, I carry a roll of toilet paper in my purse. Seriously. I actually had to search for it in convenience stores and supermarkets. Also, in the stores, I don't really see deodrants or shaving materials. I've noticed that a lot of the Chinese smell. I'm in a hostel now and my first night, I shared a room with a older Chinese man who REEKED. God, it was hard to breathe in that room. But the shaving, I'm a little confused about. A lot of the Chinese men are clean shaven and the women do not have hair on their legs. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.

I have found some English bookstores, since I can't watch TV on the Chinese Communist-censored internet, I might read novels. Of course, being in a Communist country, certain books are banned. Oh, freedom. I do miss freedom. But at the same time, I'm looking forward to this experience of being in a Communist country as it will make me more well-rounded and have a better outlook on life.

I made some friends today!

I have friends in Shanghai now! Well, technically they do not live in Shanghai, but they live in the next city about 30 minutes outside of Shanghai; and they say they come often. They are two Chinese girls from Suzhou (the next city) who are in their last year in college. I was in People's Square and they approached me and started chatting with me. The reason they approached me was so that they could work on improving their English; as it turns out, we got along really well and decided that we would be friends and hang out again when they come back to Shanghai for a weekend. They wanted me to be exposed to Chinese culture, so they took me to a tea house near Nanjing Lu and experience the whole Chinese tea time. It was very neat and interesting. I tried seven different kinds of tea--China has over a thousand kinds of tea!

Well, this whole experience was very relaxing as well as eye opening to the Chinese culture. The Chinese take huge pride in their tea and for them, tea has many different properties that contributes to healing and improving the body. The waitress took us to a private room where we sat on an authentic wooden table. She prepared the seven teas right in front of us one at a time. She spoke to us on how each tea was good for the body in several ways. Of course the girls had to translate what she said for me. Also, I had to drink the tea a certain way and hold the cup a certain way to symbolize beauty and wellness. I could only hold the cup with three fingers: thumb, index and middle fingers. I could only drink the tea in three sips. It was all very organized and very spiritual as we toasted to Confucious (well, I think it was Confucious). One of the tea cups had a black dragon on it and when the hot tea would pour into it, it would change color. I thought it was really neat and I eventually bought it! The teas that were served were green tea, jasmin tea, ginger tea, black tea, fruit tea, hibiscus flower tea, yellow flower tea, and one other kind that I can't remember. I really liked the black tea, so I bought one can for me to take home.

The girls, Helen and Shirley (English names of course), and I exchanged our emails and I hope to hear from them soon! Or maybe I will go visit them in Suzhou! Well, they said they are definitely coming back to Shanghai.

First week was harder than I expected

Well, this was quite a first week. I am back in the same coffee/bakery shop where I had written my last journal post. I don't really know how to recap on my first week here. It was a week of culture shock, excitement and disappointment. Well, the really bad news is that I was actually too inexperienced to the teaching at the school, so they sent me off. To be honest, I really am too inexperienced. I only had just graduated from college and did two months of substitute and volunteer teaching in Texas...to Hispanics. Hispanics are totally different from East Asian students. Hispanics are easier for me to teach because I have some knowledge of Spanish and if they didn't understand me, I could just tell them in Spanish. Also, Hispanics are not as demanding as East Asian students in terms of their feedback on their performance. East Asian students already had learned 10 years of written English grammar, but they have no speaking skills. Really, this school, KaiEn English Training Center, was an extremely reputable school and one of the best English private schools in Shanghai. They paid a lot of money for classes and expect A LOT from the teachers. KaiEn said I was too inexperienced and too young. I would actually be younger than the students themselves; since that they are mostly professionals looking for jobs in foreign English-speaking companies.

I was extremely disappointed when they told me they couldn't hire me. I really wanted to do this so badly. It just wasn't meant for me to teach at this school. I had met some other teachers and they are all seasoned teachers who have at least 3 years of teaching experience to East Asian students are just starting out at KaiEn. This makes me wonder why did they hire me in the first place? They knew of my lack of experience. This is just a little puzzling to me. However, one good thing did come out of this. They told me specifically what I need to work on in terms of my teaching skills; and they have given me names of other schools in Shanghai which are perfect for inexperienced teachers. I need to work on my feedback on the students pronunciation and speaking grammar skills...I can't only teach it to them; I also have to point out their mistakes (in the best way possible, of course) and explain it to them what they did wrong.

As in contacting other schools, I already have two interviews lined up next week! These schools are better for me because the students come to the school and learn English from the computer and they meet with me afterwards for review and tutoring. This is a much more relaxed atmosphere for me. And this way, I would have much smaller classes, no more than four. I just don't have the capacity right now to teach 15+ students. Honestly, I would prefer to teach at these schools since I wouldn't have to commit so much. The teachers at KaiEn are ESL teachers for a living and devote their whole lives to it. As for me, I am not on the same page as them. I'm really just in it for a short-term thing before I head back to the US for post-graduate work. Don't get me wrong, I really do want to teach English, but I'm not planning to do it for the rest of my life.

Now that I got the bad part of the week out of the way, I can focus on the good things. As I already said, I have two interviews at other schools next week, which I'm super excited for! Now, onto the Chinese culture. It is a serious culture shock here, but I find it rather exciting than more shocked in a bad way. First thing you have to realize in China, their idea of rudeness and "street etiquette" is NOT same as it is in the Western countries. These people will push, shove, and bump their elbows to get the better seat on the bus or subway. They will stand extremely close to you. Westerners have an idea of personal space and do not like it when random stange people stand really close to us. The Chinese simply do not have that idea of personal space. The pushing, shoving and bumping doesn't really bother me as you would think; but I am definitely someone who likes personal space. That part is hard for me to get used to. Maybe after a few weeks, I will be used to it.

Right now, there are American men sitting at a table text to me and they are speaking English. I cannot help but listen to them talk. It's those rare times that I hear English outside of the schools. It's like music to my ears. I never realized how much I would actually miss talking to restaurant workers, cab drivers, or even just random people on the street in my native tongue. But newsflash for me, I do miss being in an English-speaking society. Ha, maybe I'm starting to sound homesick. I am getting more and more used to it everyday hearing Chinese all the time. I even picked up on some Chinese and reading some signs in Chinese. Maybe my "survival Mandarin" is coming along quickly.

Also, I have went to the most "toursity" street in Shanghai, Nanjing Lu. There are people that will go up to any Westerner and constantly try to sell them something. All four times that I've went so far (one of the branches of KaiEn is located there), I've been approached by these people at least 5 times. "No, I do not want your fake bags and watches, thank you." Now, I have just ignored them and just kept on walking. However, one of the strangest things was that I have gone on that street enough times, one of the guys selling the fake stuff recognized me yesterday. But he didn't try to sell me anything this time. All he said was "Ni hao! Ni hao! I be your friend! You beautiful!" FYI, "Ni hao" is "how are you" in Mandarin. It was nice to hear that he thought I was beautiful; but at the same time, I couldn't help but think that he was saying that to get me to buy stuff.

Well, this concludes my first week in Shanghai.

First Day in Shanghai

I'M IN SHANGHAI!!! This city is massive, makes cities like New York and Chicago seem like small towns (yes, I'm actually serious). And the number of high-rises is unbelieveable. Last night, my recruiter picked me up to take me to my hotel, we took the Maglev, which is supposedly one of the fastest subway system in China. It can reach up to 350 km/hr. Wow, that is fast. My recruiter, Joseph, actually kind of reminds of me Tiger Woods. He told me he had lived in Shanghai for the past three years and he is originally from Colorado.

Anyway, we took the Maglev to get to outskirts of Pudong (the lower neighborhood of Shanghai) and took a taxi into the city. We drove across a bridge over the river; the bridge was so high up and it was alongside the apartment high-rises, it actually felt like I was in some science-fiction movie set in a city. The way it looked, it looked so futuristic. I cannot imagine what Tokyo must look like. When I got to Pudong neighborhood, I saw lights like it was a street in Las Vegas, but Joseph told me that was nothing compared to the Shangai downtown area. Well, Today, I will check out the downtown area after going to the office for some paperwork.

I think I will really enjoy it here in Shanghai. The people seem friendlier than I had expected. Of course, there is a language barrier. I tried ordering a calling card from a convenience store this morning and that did not work out. The guy couldn't understand what I was trying to ask, and I couldn't understand him either. Obviously this means I should learn at least some "survival" Mandarin; to the point when I can order in restaurants, talk in grocery/convenience stores and to taxi drivers. Well, I have been learning some already; so far, I've only been saying "thank you" when I bought my food from the store.

Right now, I'm in a cafe watching life on this seemingly busy street go by and maybe learn a thing or two about Chinese city lifestyle. I've noticed people act very busy, always walking like they are rushing to get to someplace. But me, I'm just strolling on the street. Plus, everyone stares at me, as if they have never seen a Westerner before. Of course, they have seen Westerners before, but I think they like to stare just because there isn't too many of them in Asia. Also, there is about just as much bikes and mopeds as there are cars. And, they do not seem to notice pedestrians. I was walking to get to the cafe, and it was a green pedestrian light to cross the street; and bikes and cars were still turning and not stopping for pedestrians. I almost gotten run over. I was standing in the middle of the street all confused on whether I should run off the street or just keep walking like the other people. They do not seem to be concerned at all about the bus driving moderatly fast coming right at us. One other strange thing I noticed, a guy on bike had two dead animal carcasses. I guess it's normal here, but it definitely wasn't normal for me.

Later on, I will check out downtown and People's Square, since the office is really close to that area. Whoo, big lights here I come!

first entry-5 days before leaving for Shanghai

Well, this isn't the first time I tried this blog/journal online thingy. I tried it once and only lasted 3 entries. Hmmmm, I used to keep handwritten journals for as long as I can remember, but I stopped in college. I kinda wished I didn't. Oh well, college is over and I am off to China. But I promised myself I will at least keep some kind of a diary or journal of my experiences in China.

Yep, In five days, I am boarding a plane (more like 3 planes) to Shanghai, China, where I will spend at least a year teaching English. I have a contract with KaiEn English Language Center in the city, a place where I will be teaching young business professionals conversational English. Also, I will be introducing new vocabulary to them so they can discuss business, as well as history, politics, religion, philosophy and etc. Basically, my students will have some knowledge of English; they are just not fluent.

On a more personal note, I have no clue what will happen to me once I arrive at the Pudong International Airport in Shanghai. All I know is that the recruiter from the school will pick me up and take me to the hotel that they had provided for me. I have to look for an apartment, set up a bank account, convert from a tourist visa to a work visa, get a physical (required in the contract) and buy a local cell phone (no way I can afford a international cell phone). At the same time, I'm kinda worried it will be hard to make friends, everyone here in San Antonio keeps saying that no one will speak English. Well, if everyone spoke English over there, I wouldn't be going over there in the first place. Maybe, I'm stressing myself too much over the friend thing. The teachers at the school are probably really cool people and will be open-minded.

Not sure when is the next time I'll write: on the plane or after I arrived in Shanghai. As for now, I have LOTS of packing to do!